HISTORIC CHARLESTON. Start anywhere on the "Peninsula," the historically rich old city of Charleston between the Ashley and Cooper rivers, and walk in any direction. There's something to see at every turn - remarkably beautiful historic homes and public buildings, art galleries, antique stores, restaurants, museums, parks, and gardens. To the untrained eye, there appears to be little neighborhood demarcation in street after street of wonderfully preserved, grandly colonnaded buildings. Historic Charleston is, however, loosely segmented into neighborhood areas by history, nuance and perception.

Some of the oldest streets and structures are along the Cooper River, site of the early settlement, once surrounded by a protective wall extending south to Water Street, westward to Meeting, and north to Cumberland. Present-day Waterfront Park marks the location of the first docks and wharves which gave the city life. Visit the Old Exchange Building, witness to the notable and notorious, and the colonial era Provost Dungeon, keeper of fascinating stories. Walk down Chalmers Street, Lodge Alley and Unity Alley on ancient cobblestones, discarded ballast stones from colonial sailing vessels. Photograph the 1690 Pink House , the oldest masonry house in Charleston, attend a play in Dock Street Theatre , America's oldest theatrical playhouse.

Enter the early churches clustered in this area - St. Philip's Episcopal Church , the French Huguenot Church , the Circular Congregational Church, testaments to the religious tolerance of the early city. Take the Gateway Walk , past half-hidden gardens behind decorative wrought-iron gates, many made by slave artisans. Visit the Powder Magazine , the only public building dating from the original settlement, and one of the few surviving made of tabby, a colonial era building material of oyster shells and sand.

This is also Charleston's thriving commercial center. Wonderful shops - eclectic, upscale, ordinary and unique - and cafés, trendy hot spots, old world dining rooms and no frills places to eat are tucked in among the architecturally significant buildings on major thoroughfares and down small ancient alleys. Discover a painting by a regional artist in the Waterfront Gallery; a coffee table book on lovely local gardens in the Historic Charleston Foundation Shop and Bookstore or in the Preservation Society of Charleston Bookstore; unusual folk art at Indigo. On and around East Bay, enjoy coffee at the Charleston Coffee House, a frosty microbrew at the Southend Brewery; settle in for awhile at The Griffin, a cozy English pub; have drink with a view at Rooftop Bar in the venerable Vendue Inn. Savor dozens of great culinary choices: McGrady's, where George Washington dined; Blossom, the place to see and be seen; Carolina's, where locals dine.   Try delicious dishes at trendy High Cotton, gourmet specialties at elegant Charleston Chops, flavorful surprises on small plates a Slightly North of Broad, fresh seafood at Hank's, flavorful tapas at Meritage.

Colonial-era French merchants settled on the north side of Cumberland Street, in an area now called the French Quarter.  A picturesque neighborhood with a Left Bank ambience, Charleston's artists congregate here and their galleries make interesting browsing. Some restaurants, like intimate Mistral, are distinctly French; others, near the Customs House, serve an abundance of delicious local Carolina oysters and crab.   

Just north is the festive Market Area, where famous Old City Market stretches from Meeting to East Bay. It's a bustling place, with vendors selling just about everything. Not to be missed are women weaving Lowcountry sweet grass baskets on site, an art form handed down from plantation days. Nearby, begin a leisurely horse-drawn carriage tour, a Charleston tradition. Restaurants- affordable or extravagant, indoors or al fresco, casual or elegant - are everywhere. Charleston Place Hotel, on the market's west side, combines a grand hotel, a complex of upscale shops, and fine restaurants.

Venture north of Pickney, pass by stately Greek Revival homes in Ansonborough, the city's first residential suburb. Admire the 1792 Beth Eloh Synagogue, established in 1750, and St. Johannes Evangelical Lutheran Church, where services were conducted in German until 1924. In marked contrast to the regal columns of Greek Revival architecture is the 1712 William Rhett House, the oldest of the early single houses in the city. While not many restaurants are in this residential area, you can enjoy fresh and organic creations at FIG or reserve a table on the piazza of a single house at Cru Café.  

Along King Street and nearby cross streets, trendy boutiques share equal billing with shop after shop filled with elegant antiques right out Charleston's "golden era." Stop for a Lowcountry lunch at charming Poogan's Porch, or in one of the many alcoves of 82 Queen. Towards the north end of King Street, locals, visitors, and students and professors from nearby College of Charleston, the first municipal college in America, frequent small ethnic restaurants serving delicious tapas, tasty sushi, and spicy pastas.

North of Calhoun Street, in an area convenient to the Charleston Visitors Center, is a collection of historically significant homes: the Joseph Manigault House, open to the public, and the private Aiken Rhett Mansion and William Aiken Home. In the area around Upper King, listen to world-class music in the Charleston Music Hall and enjoy classical or contemporary dance at The Charleston Ballet Theater.  Contemporary upscale restaurants, Fish, Coast, 39 Rue De Jean, cater to the cultural crowd. The King Street Antique Mall should not be missed, and on Saturdays, March-December, find local seasonal produce and regional art in the Farmers Market in Marion Square.

Nothing says affluence like South of Broad, the tree-shaded tip of the Peninsula, always a prestigious address. Some of the oldest buildings are here: Rainbow Row, where merchants lived and stored their goods; St. Michael's Church, where George Washington attended services; First Scotts Presbyterian Church, the 5th oldest church structure in the city; First Baptist Church, "mother church" of Southern Baptists. Visit the1772 Heyward-Washington House, the home of Thomas Heyward, signer of the Declaration of Independence, and the 1808 Nathaniel Russell House, open to public.     

The area most associated with South of Broad is South Battery, where grand residences epitomize Charleston elegance. Wealthy planters and merchants built these palatial homes with views of the harbor, and today, most are privately owned. The life of privilege of the "golden era" is visible on a tour of the 1828 Regency style Edmonston-Alston House on East Battery, or "High Battery." End a day in Charleston by "taking the air" in White Point Gardens, a tree-shaded sanctuary cooled by the ocean breeze.

MT. PLEASANT.  Drive over the spectacular Ravenel Bridge spanning the Cooper River to Mt. Pleasant, where remnants of the original 1680 farming community can be seen in the Old Village. Today, Mt. Pleasant is a large "bedroom" community of Charleston with a delightful small town feel. Moderately priced accommodations and casual restaurants provide a comfortable alternative to its more formal neighbor.   

There is a wealth of things to see and do: Patriot's Point Naval & Maritime Museum, whose floating and land exhibits include the USS Yorktown ; unforgettable salt marsh vistas along Shem Creek, where working shrimp boats floating in pluff mud nestle up to marsh grass. Enjoy fresh seafood at Shem Creek Bar & Grill, or in delis, diners and oyster bars, many with shucked oysters shells piled nearby. Listen to music by a bonfire in the sand at the Charleston Harbor Resort and Marina; enjoy an oyster roast at sunset, a true Lowcountry tradition. Drive up US 17 to the Charles Pickney National Historic Site, rich in the history of African contributions to Lowcountry culture. Visit Boone Hall Plantation , a cotton plantation dating to1690, and be sure to photograph the sweeping oak-lined entrance. Find a handmade sweet grass basket at a roadside stand; browse through antique malls; enjoy happy hour at Kaminsky's Most Excellent Café.  

SULLIVAN'S ISLAND.  Over the Intracoastal Waterway lies Sullivan's Island, a small, quiet residential beachside community with limited commercial development. As one of the region's "sea islands" separating the marshes of the coastal mainland from the Atlantic Ocean, it has been a retreat since the 1800s for wealthy Charlestonians eager to escape the heat of summer. Today its residents are fulltime, some living in historic summer homes, others in new stilt homes along the dunes. At the northwestern end, visit Fort Moultrie, whose story begins with one of the first decisive American victories in the Revolution and ends in World War II.

ISLE OF PALMS.   Further up Sullivan's Island is the Isle of Palms, yet another sea island, developed into a residential resort of over 4500 people. With many choices of accommodation, 5 miles of sandy beach along the sparkling Atlantic, shops and restaurants, it's a beach and golfing destination. Wild Dunes Resort at the very end offers it all - beaches, two championship golf courses, and world-class marina.  

FOLLY BEACH.   On the other side of the Peninsula, across the Ashley River and through James Island, is Folly Beach, an eclectic beach town.  The year-round resident population of 2000 swells daily with beachgoers, surfers and fishermen, attracted to the laid back "surfer" atmosphere and expansive beach.  Folly Beach County Park, on the western end of the island, offers convenient amenities for beach-goers.  

KIAWAH ISLAND.   On upscale Kiawah Island, a sea island 21 miles south of Charleston, 1000 residents share the protected forests, gorgeous stands of live oak, marshes, and beaches with guests visiting full service, luxury resorts with world-renown golf courses. The island has the area's most pristine beach, accessible at Beachwalker County Park, on the southern tip of the island. A stay at The Sanctuary is the ultimate indulgence - pampering, exquisite ocean view suites, world-class golf - all in an atmosphere reminiscent of a gracious seaside mansion of Charleston's gilded age.